Method of making footwear



p 1941- L H. LHOLLIER ET AL .237.835

METHOD -OF MAKING FOOTWEAR Filed March 2, .1958 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Les/is HLZHb/ZZ'EE f extended from the flattened condition it appears as shown in Fig. 2c, and when the upper is drawn upon the last Ii as shown in Figs. 3 and 3a, a substantially flush and smooth surface is provided over the shoe bottom, there being substantially no bulge at the seam l2 which extends down the sole, shank, heel breast and back of the heel between the side margins of the shoe, preferably centrally thereof. This absence of bulge at the seam has the advantage of making possible the use of thin materials for the sole and the total absence of any insole is permitted. Objectionable adhesion away from the line of cutting between the adjoining faces of the folded rubber may be prevented as by a suitable dusting powder such as starch applied to these faces. The top of the upper at it and the bottom of the heel portion at E6 are left open to facilitate mounting upon a last.

The upper is then mounted upon a last it with the cut-seam i2 extending along the longitudinal center of the sole and the longitudinal center of the breast portion it of the heel, although if desired this seam may be disposed at one side or the other of the center. A heel plug it may be inserted and the lower margin it of the rubber folded over and tacked down upon the heel plug as shown in Fig. 3 to provide a heel seat. To the end of facilitating a close fitting of the material about the shank portion 2t and in the region where the shank portion joins the breast of the heel the material is preferably formed with an opening 2i of rectangular or diamond shape, Fig. 3, resulting from slitting the material when flat as shown at 26c, Fig. 2, which permits the material to be fitted in closely conforming relation upon the last without the formation of wrinkles or other malformations. This opening also has the advantage of contributing to the stretchability of the shank portion of the shoe in the Mal construction. In some cases, as where the heel is not too complex in contour, a good fit can be obtained without the provision of this opening, in which case the seam may extend all along the shoe bottom.

After the piece it has been fitted upon the last the other component parts of the shoe may be built upon it including a front piece 22 which may be lapped over at 23 upon the sole portion, a substantially non-stretchable sole tap stiffener 2d of square woven fabric or other suitable material and a sole tap 33 of rubber composition. An inner rubberized heel and back stiffener 525 of square-woven or other substantially non-stretchable material is disposed as a vertical strip next to the layer it. An outer rubber covered heel stiffener 2b which may also be of square woven fabric or the like, so as to be substantially nonstretchable, is applied around the heel but not entirely across the breast portion l8 thereof. Preferably the element 28 is extended only around the edge of the heel onto the breast portion for security of attachment leaving the remaining breast portion freely stretchable. A stiffening element 21 may be applied at the heel bottom and this element likewise extends only partially onto the breast portion of the heel so as not to 'restrict the stretchability of the latter to any material extent. A shank piece 28 of elastic material, preferably unreinforced rubber composiwise a rubber trimming 3| may be applied at the tion, is applied upon the shank portion of the top margin of the upper. A gusset 32, which may be an identifying label is provided in the opening 2! at the shank to fill the same, appearing at the inside of the shoe. After the complete assembly of the shoe, it is vulcanized thus binding all the components into a homogeneous unit.

The overshce thus constructed is stretchable lengthwise and crosswise in the shank portion and also in the breast portion of the heel so that the stretchable area extends from the bottom margin of the heel tread to the rear margin of the sole tread, and this stretchable area permits fitting of the overshoe upon footwear of various lengths and widths and is especially advantageous in adapting the overshoe to womens high-heeled footwean The shoe bottom is smooth across its width and needs no insole owing to the edge-toedge registering relation at the cut-seam, which results upon spreading the united material and mounting it upon the last as in Figs. 2c, 3, and 3a, and the manner in which the upper extends continuously and smoothly across the shw bottom; and the shoe, while light in weight and attractive in appearance, is strong and durable.

While it is preferred to include fabric or fibrous reinforcements as above described, these may be omitted in some cases, either largely or altogether, and only rubber parts added to the onepiece upper to provide an all rubber or substantially all rubber shoe stretchable throughout.

Variations may be made without departing from the scope of the invention as it is defined in the following claims.

We claim:

1. The method of making rubber footwear which comprises disposing layers of unvulcanized sheet-rubber upper material in superimposed and unadhered relation, cutting the superimposed layers in such shape as to provide a bottom for the upper adapted to conform closely to a last upon mounting the upper thereon, including sole, shank and heel covering portions, and simultaneously by the act of such cutting uniting said layers integrally in edge to edge relation in a seam extending along said sole, shank and heel portions between the side margins thereoi and adapted upon mounting-- the upper upon the last to be substantially flush with the bottom of the upper, then mounting the upper upon the last with said seam extending smoothly along said sole, shank and heel portions, assembling parts thereon to complete the footwear, and vulcanizing the assembly.

2. The method of making a rubber overshoe having a one-piece upper and a stretchable shank, which method comprises disposing layers of unvulcanized sheet-rubber upper material in superimposed and unadhered relation, cutting the superimposed layers in such shape as to provide a bottom for the upper adapted to conform closely to a last upon mounting the upper thereon, including sole, shank and heel covering portions, and simultaneously by the act of such cutting uniting said layers integrally in edge to edge relation in a seam extending along such sole, shank and heel portions between the side margins thereof and adapted upon mounting the upper upon the last to be substantially flush with the bottom of the upper, then mounting the upper upon the last with said seam extending smoothly along said sole, shank and heel portions, assembling parts thereon to complete the overshoe, in-

eluding reinforcing elements over the sole and heel portions, while keeping the intervening shank portion stretchable by virtue of the stretchability o! the material of the upper, and vulcanizing the overshoe.

3. The method of making rubber footwear which comprises folding unvulcamzed sheetrubber upper material to provide a vamp portion at the fold, cutting the superimposed layers in such shape as to provide opposite the fold a bottom for the upper adapted to conform closely to a last upon mounting the upper thereon, including sole, shank and heel covering portions, simultaneously by the act of such cutting uniting said layers integrally in edge to edge relation in a seam extending along such sole, shank and heel portions between theside margins thereof and adapted upon mounting the upper upon the last to be substantially flush with the bottom of the upper, then mounting the upper upon the last with said seam extending smoothly along said sole, shank and heel portions, and with said fold at the front portion, assembling parts thereon to complete the footwear, and vulcanizing the assembly.

4. The method of making rubber footwear which comprises disposing layers of unvulcanized sheet-rubber upper material in superimposed and unadhered layers, cutting the superimposed layers in such shape as to provide a bottom (or the upper adapted to conform closely to a last upon mounting the upper thereon, including sole, shank and heel coverin portions, and simultaneously by the act of such cutting uniting said layers integrally in edge to edge relation in a seamextending along such portions adapted upon mounting the upper upon the last to be substantially flush with the bottom of the upper, cutting the united layers in the region of the shank-covering portion to provide an opening therethrough, then mounting the upper upon a last with said seam extendin smoothly along said sole,,shank and heel per-- tions, the shank and heel breast portions of the upper being conformed to the last by virtue of the width adjustment afforded by said opening, assembling parts on said upper to complete the footwear, and vulcanizing the assembly.

5. The method making rubber footwear which comprises disposing layers of unvulcanized sheet-rubber upper material in superimposed and unadhered layers, cutting the superimposed layers in such shape as to provide a bottom for the upper adapted to conform closely to a last upon mounting the upper thereon, including sole, shank and heel covering portions, and simultaneously by the act of such cutting uniting said layers integrally in edge to edge relation in a seam extending along such portions and adapted upon mounting the upper upon the last to be substantially flush with the bottom of the upper, cutting the united layers in the region of the shank covering portion to provide an opening therethrough, then mounting the upper upon the last with said seam extending smoothly along said sole, shank and heel portions, the shank and heel breast portions of the upper being conformed to the last by virtue of the width adjustment afforded by said opening, assembling parts on said upper to complete the footwear, including reinforcing elements over said sole and heel portions and a gusset filling said opening, and vulcanizing the assembly.

6. The method of making a rubber overshoe having a one-piece upper and a stretchable shank, which method comprises folding unvulcanized sheet rubber upper material in super imposed and unadhered layers, cutting the superimposed layers opposite the fold in such shape as to provide a bottom for the upper adapted to conform closely to a last upon mounting the upper thereon, including sole, shank and heel covering portions, and simultaneously by the act of such cutting uniting said layers integrally in edge to edge relation in a seam extending along such portions, said seam being adapted upon mounting the upper upon a last to be substantially flush with the bottom of the upper, slitting the united layers in the region of the shank covering portion to provide an opening therethrough, then mounting the upper upon a last with said seam extending smoothly along said sole, shank and heel portions, the shank and heel covering portions being conformed to the last by virtue of the width adjustment afforded by said opening, assembling parts upon the upper to complete the overshoe, including reinforcing elements over the sole and heel portions, while keeping the intervening shank portion stretchable by virtue of the stretchability of the material of the upper and including a gusset to iill said opening, and vulcanizing the overshoe.

LESLIE H. LHOLUER.

FREDERICK F. OLSON. 

